From Chandni Chowk to Ch-Chai! A beginner’s travel guide to Chandni Chowk

If you’re reading this article, you’re probably lost. And by lost, I mean actually lost in the labyrinthine complexes of Chandni Chowk. 

“It’s an ant’s colony!” I exclaimed the first time I went here and still the subsequent times I’ve visited bring me back to the same feeling. 

Everything you’ve imagined about India is probably true. And this vision has its beating heart embedded in the centre of Delhi: Chandi Chowk. 

History

“This is a battle, a war, and the casualties could be your hearts and souls”. John Keating was right. The winding, tumultuous roads frequently blocked by the horns of rickshaws and tuk-tuks accurately represent Chandni Chowk. It is a war–a war that has ranged since the years before you and me were alive. 

Built upon a piece of abandoned land in Old Delhi in the 17th century, Chandni Chowk is a living piece of history that has witnessed centuries of change and evolution. It was ideated and constructed under the keen eyes of Princess Jahanara Begum(which was quite controversial then). This bustling commercial hub was conceived as the centrepiece of Shahjahanabad, the capital city built by Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor. 

Origins and Design

The market has a central reflecting pool or canal that runs through the market. This water feature was designed to reflect the moonlight, adding a serene beauty to the bustling market. The canal was flanked by trees and lined with shops and mansions. So, if I told you Chandni Chowk was a literal translation of “Moonlight Square”, it would be a bit on the nose, right?

The market was designed as a wide, straight boulevard running from the Lahori Gate of the Red Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid, located at the western end of Chandni Chowk. This main road was lined with shops on either side, creating a grand and organized commercial space. The original design featured a symmetrical layout with the reflecting pool or canal at the centre, dividing the marketplace into two halves. The symmetry extended to the layout of the buildings and the alignment of the shops and mansions along the boulevard. The market was surrounded by grand Mughal-style mansions (havelis) and high-quality shops. These structures were characterized by ornate facades, intricate carvings, and large courtyards. The mansions were designed to reflect the opulence of the Mughal era and served as residences for merchants and aristocrats.

The main road was designed to be wide and spacious to accommodate the bustling trade and large crowds. Alongside the main road, narrower lanes were created to access different areas of the market. These lanes were organized by the type of goods sold, creating specialized zones within the market.

The Jewels of Chandni Chowk

Chandni Chowk is a pretty secular place, with a mosque, temple, church and gurudwara encompassing the borders of the mini-city. Moreover, from the time I’ve visited the winding, narrow routes of Chandni Chowk that seem to engulf me in a richness that can’t be experienced anywhere else, I’ve nearly visited every major street there is. And I’ll tell you a few things about it.

1. The people are actually pretty kind

2. There is nothing you’ll not find in Chandni Chowk. 

 If you want something specific or are likely to feel overwhelmed (especially if it's your first time visiting India), it's a good idea to take a personalized shopping tour. The one conducted by Ketaki of Delhi Shopping Tours is highly recommended. Delhi Magic also conducts an insightful Old Delhi Bazaar Walk.

Here’s a guide to some of the most prominent streets in this historic area:

1. Main Bazaar: The central artery of Chandni Chowk, stretching from the Red Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid, is a lively thoroughfare filled with an eclectic mix of shops and eateries. This street offers everything from textiles to electronics, making it a one-stop shop for a variety of goods.

2. Paranthe Wali Gali: This narrow alley is famous for its delicious stuffed parathas, an Indian flatbread. A culinary landmark, it serves a variety of parathas with fillings such as potato, paneer, and lentils, accompanied by pickles and yoghurt.

3. Dariba Kalan: Known for its traditional jewellery shops, Dariba Kalan specializes in silver and gold pieces. It is Asia’s largest jewellery market. It lies within the walled city of Delhi and connects the Chandni Chowk area with Dharampura and Jama Masjid. It derives its name from the Persian Dur-e-Bebha, which translates to unparalleled pearls.  It’s a go-to destination for intricate traditional designs and antique jewellery, reflecting the area’s rich heritage.

4. Khari Baoli: Asia’s largest spice market, Khari Baoli is a sensory delight with its aromatic stalls selling spices, herbs, and dried fruits. This street is a hub for spice traders and offers a vibrant atmosphere filled with exotic smells. Baoli means a stepwell whereas Khari means salty. It was therefore a salty water step well used for bathing in the olden days.. 

5. Kinari Bazaar: Famous for its bridal wear, Kinari Bazaar is the place to find elaborate saris, lehengas, and wedding accessories. The street is renowned for its intricate designs and ornate embellishments.

6. Ballimaran: A blend of tradition and modernity, Ballimaran features shops selling leather goods, optical products, and other merchandise. Its diverse offerings cater to a wide range of needs and preferences.

7. Saddar Bazaar: An extension of Chandni Chowk, Saddar Bazaar is known for its variety of products from electronics to household items. The bustling environment offers a wide selection of goods.

8. Gali Chandiwali: This lesser-known alley is a hidden gem for Indian sweets and snacks. It offers a selection of traditional treats like jalebi and rasgulla, providing a taste of local flavors.

9. Maliwara: Specializing in textiles, Maliwara is the go-to street for fabric enthusiasts. It features a range of materials from traditional to contemporary styles, catering to diverse tastes.

10. Hauz QaziWith a historical backdrop, Hauz Qazi blends traditional shops with modern establishments. It offers a mix of general merchandise, including crafts and retail items.

Each street in Chandni Chowk provides a distinct experience, reflecting the market’s rich history and cultural diversity. From delectable street food to exquisite jewellery, Chandni Chowk continues to be a vibrant heart of Old Delhi, offering a snapshot of the city’s dynamic heritage.

Focus on restoration 

Chandni Chowk is renowned for its Mughal-era havelis, which once served as grand residences for the affluent. These mansions are characterized by their ornate facades, intricate carvings, and spacious courtyards. Features such as jali screens (decorative latticework), arched doorways, and elaborate arches exemplify the grandeur of Mughal architecture. Many of these havelis still stand today, though some have been adapted for commercial use.

The traditional buildings, including havelis, were designed to reflect the opulence of the Mughal elite. They were not only residential spaces but also centres of trade and culture. The blend of functional design with aesthetic elegance highlights the importance of Chandni Chowk as a thriving commercial and cultural hub during the Mughal era.

During the British colonial period, Chandni Chowk saw the introduction of new architectural styles. Colonial structures, such as administrative buildings and shops, were added to the existing Mughal layout. These buildings often featured European design elements like high ceilings, large windows, and ironwork, creating a fusion of British and Mughal aesthetics.

The British era brought significant changes to Chandni Chowk’s infrastructure, including the introduction of trams and modern roadways. While these developments modernized the market, they also led to alterations in the traditional architectural landscape.

Recent restoration projects aim to preserve Chandni Chowk’s historical and architectural heritage. Efforts focus on refurbishing Mughal-era havelis and colonial buildings while updating infrastructure to accommodate modern needs. This includes restoring original facades, repairing intricate carvings, and reintroducing traditional design elements. Restoration efforts are mindful of the need to balance modernization with historical preservation. This includes upgrading utilities and infrastructure while maintaining the architectural integrity of heritage buildings. Projects often involve collaboration with conservation experts to ensure that any updates are sensitive to the market’s historical character.To highlight the architectural significance of Chandni Chowk, heritage walks and tours have been introduced. These guided tours educate visitors about the historical context of the buildings, the evolution of the market, and ongoing restoration efforts. They play a crucial role in raising awareness and appreciation for the area’s rich architectural legacy.

I hope this short introduction to Chandni Chowk inspired you to immediately book a trip to India, simply to marvel at the grandeur of the Mughal-era buildings or simply indulge in the ghee-laden paranthas or the abundant sweet treats. Chandni Chowk stands as a testimony that places can metamorphose without changing their roots. It remains a microcosm of India—an ever-changing yet enduring blend of history, culture, tradition, and modernity.